Restaurants & Dining

So Cool It's Hot

Our new restaurant reviewer checks out Infuzion's "best-kept secret in town"

So Cool It's Hot
Photo by Ginger Warder
While Infuzion may be known for its Ice Lounge, it's also a great place to eat, according to the reviewer.

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Ginger Warder
Richmond.com
Friday, April 04, 2008

All of Richmond is buzzing about Infuzion's Ice Lounge, not only a first for the city, but for the U.S. as well. If donning an insulated parka and gloves and drinking cocktails "in the rocks" sounds like your style, this is the place.

Your $15 buys you 30 chilly minutes in the cavern where the tables, bar and highball glasses are all made of frozen H2O. You'll also get a "been there, done that" souvenir photo from your session.

But, there's much more happening at this hip venue than just chilling out in a frozen tavern. Also inside this renovated 1940s-era warehouse in the historic Scott's Addition neighborhood are a cosmopolitan dance club and a new tapas-style lounge.

If you're looking for heat rather than ice, a visit to the 5,000-square-foot dance floor will warm you up. Take advantage of the free Salsa lessons from 8 to 9 p.m. Thursdays, followed by a fiery dance party. Fridays at the club feature top dance tunes from the '60s to the present, and Saturdays have a continental vibe, with European club mixes and Infuzions' feature dancers.

"What is yet to be discovered about Infuzion may be the best-kept secret in town … the Bistro and Lounge." 

IF YOU GO:

 Infuzion Lounge 
 1401 Roseneath Road
 804-249-COOL
 http://www.infuzionlounge.com/

w Non-smoking
w Off-street parking on Leigh
w Free designated driving service on Saturdays

 Hours
w Bistro & Lounge: 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday-Saturday
w Ice Lounge: 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Tuesday-Saturday
w Club: 9 p.m. to 2 a.m. Thursday-Saturday
w Closed Sunday and Monday


What is yet to be discovered about Infuzion may be the best-kept secret in town … the Bistro and Lounge. With a "Milan-modern-meets-Asian" décor featuring muted earth tones, comfy banquettes and club chairs and fresh orchids galore, the Bistro offers an eclectic, global tasting menu of small bites.

There are actually three separate spaces within the Bistro: a full bar with lounge seating, the main lounge with live entertainment and a cozy private lounge with an electric fireplace that would be great for a birthday party or business tête-á-tête. The food is designed for sharing with a table of friends, as well as to compliment the lounge's signature infused-vodka martinis and sparkling Bellinis.

Chef Jason Boyd has gone out of his way to please every palate imaginable. The eponymous spring rolls are a fun take on buffalo wings, while the diminutive Beef Wellingtons and elegant prosciutto-wrapped asparagus with goat cheese satisfy the need for upscale hors d'oeuvres. The puff pastry on the Wellies was perfect, and the addition of the asparagus made it a demi-dinner.

The menu is divided into sections titled "Hearty Eats" – think sliders and upscale tailgate fare; "Choose Your Own Adventure," with pick-three trios from bruschetta to salad wraps; "Fresh Fare" for vegetable-lovers; "From the Sea," with offerings like tuna tartar, diver scallops and cider-bacon clams; "Local Favorites," with in-the-know picks like the Outer Banks' Owens Restaurant hush puppies and a Dim Sum Sampler; and "For Your Sweet Tooth," with selections of French pastries, cheesecake popsicles and Richmond's DeLuca gelato.

Prices range from $6.25 to $11.95 and portions are generally for four, with a pared down late-night menu available until the wee hours.

On the Hearty menu, the Angus beef links wrapped in apple cider bacon and cooked in brown sugar sounded delicious, but didn't quite live up to their prose. Tasting more like Hebrew National Hot Dogs wrapped in Oscar Mayer, there was not a hint of the apple cider and brown sugar promised, although sports bar aficionados would probably love these with a cold brew, and the presentation was lovely.

If you're watching your calorie count, you'll like the easy-to-eat Finger Salads – a trio of romaine lettuce wraps in classic Caesar, Greek, and Italian styles – but if you're not concerned about carbs and counts, try the chef's choice of Petits Fours. Owner Paul Blacker even has a dish that pays homage to his childhood favorites – Ritz Crackers with peanut butter and jelly.

The upscale sliders, called Triple Threat Burgers, are a sure hit, as are the trio of Bruschettas that will pair well with a surprisingly adventurous wine list that includes unusual vintages like a Delea Chiar di Luna white merlot from Tincino, Switzerland, several solid Chilean reds and excellent Italian proseccos.

High rollers will love choosing between Roederer's Cristal and Dom Perignon on the bubbly list, but the bottle pricing offers great choices in every budget range, from a $22 bottle of Mionetto Sergio to the $299 Cristal, with most selections falling in the $30 to $40 range. Martinis average $10, Bellinis are $9, and beers are $4 and $5 respectively for domestics and imports.

The Bistro also features live entertainment on most nights, pulling from both Richmond's talent scene, as well as regional touring acts, and, in a pinch, the Kawai Grand piano can host an evening all by itself if the crooners get stuck in traffic. On the night we were there, Bryce McCormick was romancing guests with standards like "The Way You Look Tonight." 

Service is cordial without being obsequious, and dress for this young professional's hangout is casual chic. While the novelty of the Ice Lounge may eventually succumb to the same fate as the Wicked Witch of the West, Infuzion is a triple threat in Richmond's entertainment and dining scene, and the Bistro's concept makes it a great destination for pre or post concert dining, happy hours and late night clubbing.

Freelance writer Ginger Warder specializes in food and travel, and is a regular contributor to national magazines Luxury Living, hrWatches, and Fido Friendly, as well as GoNomad.com and SouthernTravelNews.com.


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15 comments.
John
4/8/2008 at 8:53:27 AM
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I too have heard about the advertising/positive review connection.
I will also second the observation that the food tastes like it comes out of the freezer at Cosco, and the drinks are overpriced and weak.


Jennifer - Email this User
4/7/2008 at 2:09:58 PM
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We had a great time at Infuzion. I loved the dance floor and thought the overall feel of the place was just great. We will definitely go back.


Sarah
4/7/2008 at 10:42:33 AM
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Based on Karri's response, I hope things are run more ethically at R.com these days. For a long time, it was widely known in the restaurant world that R.com reviews were fueled by advertising. Not surprisingly, they were always positive.


Karri Peifer - Email this User
4/7/2008 at 10:16:41 AM
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Jenna,
That's a great observation ... and question. Richmond.com's restaurant reviewers are freelance writers. As freelancers, they're not privy to any internal partnerships with Richmond.com advertisers or sponsors. The reviewer selects the restaurant, shows up unannounced (and anonymously), tries the food and then gives his / her expert opinion ... in the form of prose.

Ginger Warder is a nationally published and respected travel, food and freelance writer. She didn't get to that position by accepting assignments that required her to compromise her journalistic integrity.

I appreciate your question, but I think it's a little unfounded. Our reviewer went to a newly opened Richmond restaurant, said that some dishes were good, others not so good and that's its really pretty inside. You may not agree with her assessment and that's fine. But we at Richmond.com are well aware that if we write and publish bias and untrue stories or reviews for the sake of our advertisers that our readers will distrust us and stop reading. If no one is reading then the advertisers have no one to reach. And then who would we pander to?


Stephanie Brummell - Email this User
4/7/2008 at 9:44:25 AM
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Free drinks?! I must have missed those. And you think they wouldn't have forgotten the writer of said dating column...


Jenna
4/7/2008 at 12:05:35 AM
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SO, how does the new Richmond.com restaurant reviewing system work-- they provide you with a space and some free drinks for your dating column, and you give them an overwhelmingly positive review? Good to know that you're running such an unbiased shop over there...


Marsha
4/4/2008 at 9:56:59 PM
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Sure Ann! Come with. You have to dance tho! I never sit down. :) Maybe there were just some inconsistencies when they first opened?? It seemed to be rolling when we were there most recently. They must have worked the kinks out.


Ann
4/4/2008 at 4:45:16 PM
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Wow, can I got to Infuzion with you guys next time? Night and day compared to the disappointment I had. You all friends with someone there?


Ron
4/4/2008 at 3:17:23 PM
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We love the place. It is a great mix of an upscale dining atmosphere coupled with a great dance club. We have also tried out the Ice Bar and it is awesome.

It is well worth trip.


Marsha - Email this User
4/4/2008 at 2:55:42 PM
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All of our experiences at Infuzion have been FANTASTIC. We never paid a different price for a drink in one part of the establishment vs another and weak drinks?? No way. TASTY drinks? ABSOLUTELY. Food is quite GOOD too. Had my birthday party there and it was a GREAT night!


James
4/4/2008 at 2:42:16 PM
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Weak drinks? I was floored by my Red Bull and Vodka.


jean
4/4/2008 at 2:33:11 PM
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Finally a great article on Infuzion. It has an amazing atmosphere. And as for the price difference, never happened to us. The drinks are amazing as well as the food. Always worth the trip there. Glad to see someone is noticing the bistro side.


Ann
4/4/2008 at 10:02:03 AM
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I couldn't agree more with "Not Satisfied." Sure, the place definitely looks cool and has a good dance floor but the food is so overpriced. If you eat before hand and bring your own liquor in a flask (the drinks are SO weak it's insulting), it MIGHT be worth it. I think all the hype is making them think they can charge far too much to people looking for a taste of faux nightlife.


Not Satisfied
4/4/2008 at 9:23:40 AM
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We went when the place first opened and have to say we were not impressed. They charge more for your martini if you are sitting down and a waitress comes over (we tip, so I don't get it?) vs. you going up to the bar to get it?

Also, a lot of the app's seem to be from the freezer section of Sam's. We ordered the beef wellies and never received them.

So, in all, I don't think the food should be touted as of yet. Is it a cool bar? Sure, but I'm still miffed about those extra few dollars tacked onto my martini when I sat down in the lounge. Shady.


Jen
4/3/2008 at 7:18:51 PM
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Great informative article - I really got a feel for what the food and atmosphere are like - I can't wait to check out this place I have heard so much about....



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