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Restaurant Review

Lookin' at LuLu's

Does Lulu's in Shockoe Bottom have the goods?

Lookin' at LuLu's



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Ginger Warder
Richmond.com
Friday, May 09, 2008

Just beside the 17th Street Farmer's Market, Lulu's has been a hot spot since it opened. I popped in for dinner on the day that they debuted several new additions to the menu including Fried Green Tomatoes with a Cajun remoulade, Little Neck Clams in white wine with chorizo sausage, and Hanover tomatoes with basil and mozzarella on the appetizer list and five new entrées ranging from Sofrito-rubbed pork loin to Black Sesame Seed seared tuna.

The modern industrial chic décor immediately reminded me of the neighborhood places I used to frequent when I lived in the Village in New York, and so did the black-shirted and blue-jeaned patrons who all decided to wear the same outfit that night.

"The modern industrial chic décor immediately reminded me of the neighborhood places I used to frequent when I lived in the Village in New York." 

IF YOU GO:

21 N. 17th Street
804-343-9771
www.lu-lusrichmond.com 
 

Hours
Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Friday
Dinner: 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday
Brunch: 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday Reservations recommended for dinner

Since it was my first visit, I wanted to try both the old and the new at this urban comfort food eatery. I started with the new Fried Green Tomatoes, a generous four-slice serving big enough to share. These were fried to a crispy perfection on the outside, and the tangy remoulade had a nice kick to it. While I had heard raves about Steve's Meat Loaf and Mashed Potatoes, the High-Falootin’ Mac and Cheese with grilled shrimp had my starch-loving taste buds drooling. Unfortunately, I found the dish very disappointing with five very small (and most likely frozen) shrimp buried in a large bowl of penne pasta tossed with white cheddar, gruyère and gorgonzola cheese.

The cheese wasn't totally melted and had been nowhere near an oven, so my favorite part of mac and cheese, the slightly burnt cheesy crust on top, was missing. Had it been a homerun, the $18 price tag wouldn't have bothered me, but I would have been more satisfied at Cracker Barrel than with this bland bowl of noodles.

The salads being served around me looked great, mountains of baby greens, tomatoes, mushrooms, cucumbers and other veggies. There's also a spinach version and you can add chicken or salmon for an extra $2, so this $10 dinner is a great value choice. The large mug of soup at $5 with choices of tomato-basil and soup du jour also looked good, and every table gets a basket of fresh assorted breads. Appetizers run from $8 to $10, while entrées are $16 to $18. In addition to the tuna and pork, newly added entrées include herb-garlic roasted spring chicken, cheese tortellini with Hanover tomatoes, shitakes, pine nuts and roasted garlic, and fried catfish with a helping of the crisp fried green tomatoes. On the dessert list, a new key lime pie joins the deep dish peanut butter chocolate pie and strawberry shortcake.

It was refreshing to see a broad selection of white wines on the list, other than the ubiquitous chardonnays, especially with summer on the way. A Pinot Gris from Oregon, Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, Grüner Vetliner from Austria and a Pinot Grigio from Argentina will give diners a wide choice of pairings for salads and seafood. The red list featured mostly West Coast Pinot Noir’s and Cabernets, and bottle prices range from $25 to $65. Four by-the-glass choices at $5.50 are available in each category.

Service was perfunctory, also reminiscent of my New York days, except for the extraordinarily friendly and helpful hostess, who provided me with much more information on the new menu and dishes than my server did. I did notice, however, that my server was chatting up several regulars, so I assume if you become a familiar face, that service might go up a notch.

Freelance writer Ginger Warder specializes in food and travel, and is a regular contributor to national magazines Luxury Living, hrWatches, and Fido Friendly, as well as GoNomad.com and SouthernTravelNews.com.


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14 comments.
Allison
6/27/2008 at 12:23:12 PM
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Love, Love, Love Lulu's!!!!


K
5/16/2008 at 5:59:45 PM
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I concur with BC's comment concerning StyleWeekly. In my humble opinion it is the periodical to seek out each Wednesday for quality, thoughtful reviews on local food happenings, etc. That said I obviously read this site from time to time as well, and therefore offer my two cents on Lulu's because I can. I have eaten there once (not multiple times) and tried the lobster and crab fritters (the breading was a tad dry with no discernible seafood present); the little neck clams with chorizo (all I remember is salt, not steamed in enough white wine); Steve’s meatloaf, etc. (nice mushroom demi-glace and good potato mash, however it pales in comparison to Comfort’s meatloaf - a must try); the cheese tortellini (large portion for one – was enough to doggy bag, very cheesy, well seasoned save too much salt); and all three desserts (one boxed for takeaway): the strawberry shortcake (not memorable, few strawberries – Verbena’s is worth trying); the key lime pie (not that “key lime-y” – Joe’s Inn makes a better version); and the peanut butter pie (odd texture; very salty as if the incorrect peanut butter was used in the recipe). In all the food was noticeably salty (perhaps the work of an overzealous line cook on the night I was there), but is worth trying again especially since the menu has been updated for the summer season. And that’s that…some insight from my viewpoint on Richmond dining.


AlienAiden - Email this User
5/16/2008 at 3:06:42 PM
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My wife suggested a visit to LuLu's on a Saturday night. It was swamped. The host was abrupt and quickly said it would be 2 hours. I thought of Yogi Berra's famous comment regarding a NY restaurant---"Nobody goes there anymore because it's too crowded."
Anyway, it struck me as the "it' place. A small exposed kitchen with West End housewives sipping red wine.
I miss Chetti!


ann
5/14/2008 at 10:08:29 AM
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Richmonder, I think you're missing the point. I agree that many people can sling insults but if they attempted to write a review, suddenly it'd seem more difficult. I think the "disgruntled commentators" are making somewhat decent points because R.com's reviewer is being paid (aka a professional). Therefore, her critiques are held to higher standards than those of the blogs or whomever choses to review their "fav" place and post it on Richmond.com. Not everyone is paid to eat and write, so when you are, people are going to hold your words to more accountability than anyone with an email address that feels like commenting.


Richmonder
5/14/2008 at 12:39:50 AM
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Or - you could take Richmond.com's way of allowing what readers say, when they say it, and how they say it to be published as being honest and oh, that big word in the field of journalism non-biased. You're right though, there are ignorant people in this city - and a few of you here sound like some of them. Have you ever tried to do a restaurant review? I encourage you to go to "your fav" place, review it and send it into Richmond.com. Let's see how well you do and how well you can even form a sentence. Better yet - submit it in the comment section - let's see what you've got disgruntled commentators!


ann
5/13/2008 at 5:03:43 PM
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Couldn't agree more with "Disagree" and "BC." Most reader comments on inRich and here are so completely ignorant it's enough to make you want to move to another city. People paid to write about any subject (restaurants, movies, concerts) are supposed to provide as much info as possible. I understand the monetary limitations — just look at how the RTD is self-destructing with budget cuts and subscription hikes — but that doesn't mean many (not all) of their regular critics (dining, movies, etc.) are skimping on their critiques.


BC
5/13/2008 at 3:05:26 PM
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Richmond.com's interest in being taken seriously as a dining guide continues to decline.

Paying for a pro reviewer to go to a restaurant once, and order 2 items???

Continuing to have a dining search engine that has essentially been broken for months?

Continuing to seemingly pick and choose which newer establishments to review, based on who knows what?

While Richmond magazine is still above average for dining interest, the website has taken a strong nosedive. Style Weekly and InRich are lapping it, and that's sad to say.


terezza
5/13/2008 at 1:44:59 PM
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Funny that the wine list impressed you; I found that to be the weakest link of the place. Oh, and that stupid TV that has to be blaring all the time. We had to wait at the bar and some 'neck requested that they put NASCAR on...and they DID!!!!


Disagree - Email this User
5/13/2008 at 1:36:13 PM
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I disagree with Ms. Warder's response, "The most important part of this restaurant feature are additional comments from those readers who have also been there!" Have you read some of them comments posted to articles on richmond.com and inrich.com? I don't trust the local readers' opinions. I rely on professional critics and writers for reviews of restaurants. Richmond.com should decide that this column and the work of the writers are worth the cost of buying an extra salad for review purposes.


Ginger Warder - Email this User
5/12/2008 at 2:36:22 PM
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There are few media outlets that can afford for a reviewer to visit an outlet multiple times or take six friends along. I visit restaurants just the same way you do...anonymously...and I order a couple of things that I think I would like, just as any diner would.The salads did look great,so much so that I thought they deserved a mention. My job is to describe as honestly as I can what my experience was like, what's on the menu, and what the ambiance is like so you can make up your own mind about whether to try it. The most important part of this restaurant feature are additional comments from those readers who have also been there!


ann
5/12/2008 at 9:09:06 AM
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Whatever Dude: I don't think you understand what a "restaurant review" written by a member of the media is. To give an accurate assessment of a restaurant, you must try more than two dishes and never say something "looked good" unless you actually try it. If the reviewer needed to order more dishes (which she did), she should have returned. No professional reviewer would order everything on the menu in one sitting.

Please refrain from commenting until you study up a bit on journalism.

Foodlover: I agree. The review is disappointing not because LuLu's "is my fav" but because it wasn't thorough enough.


Roy
5/12/2008 at 8:49:05 AM
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I don't mean to continue the review bashing, but I must concur w/ the other two comments. It is hard to believe that this person has experience as a reviewer --isn't the first rule of a professional review MULTIPLE VISITS? The abundance of local blogs that review restaurants (and many of these well written) can be forgiven for posting reviews after one visit, but one from a professional? nah . . .


Whatever Dude - Email this User
5/11/2008 at 12:26:43 PM
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Foodlover-- it's one person's experience with the restaurant. Are they supposed to sit and order everything on the menu? Don't you think a. the kitchen might get suspicious that they are being reviewed and b. that's stupid?

Just b/c it's your fav. restaurant and the review isn't gushing over the top doesn't mean you should take it personally.

It's honest and one review. Deal with it.


Foodlover
5/9/2008 at 4:24:05 PM
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This is a disappointing review...it is based on trying only two dishes and merely listing the menu. "The salads looked good?" I cannot take this review seriously. Please try again when you have actually tasted more items on the menu.



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