Can it really be called a lunch rush when you are at a slow food restaurant? That's what I thought as I sat in Edible Garden, a local restaurant located in an old country store.
For those who haven't heard, slow food is prepared using fresh, locally grown products; at Edible Garden, you would be hard pressed to find something that wasn't local.
The restaurant's owners, Molly Harris and Lisa Goldstein, collaborate with chef Ed Blase to develop a menu that uses all local foods. The team tries hard to ensure that everything on the menu has been grown or produced within 100 miles of the restaurant.
The three believe by using local foods "that have not traveled long distances … we are getting the best, freshest pick of the crop," Harris said, looking around the vase of daffodils that sit on the table.
There is no doubt that finding local food to keep an 80-person restaurant in business year round is a challenge. Ever tried to make a hen lay eggs in February? The winter months can be hard, but the challenge of using only what is local and in season is a total growth experience, Blase said.
In their search for the freshest ingredients, the three developed meaningful relationships with local farmers. They began with Brookview Farm, a neighboring farm where they get eggs. These symbiotic relationships are crucial in assuring that Harris, Goldstein and Blase know the quality of the products they are using.
The idea of using fresh, products from local farms has been around for decades. The slow food movement has begun to take hold, especially in places like California and New England.
"Nationally, it is beginning to hit underground … Richmond is a little slow," Goldstein said as she re-adjusted her apron. The ladies often put gloves on and head behind the counter to arrange sandwiches on the artisan bread that is baked just a few miles down the road, in the city.
Harris and Goldstein were inspired to open the restaurant three years ago when they both had children and were looking for local food they could raise them on. On their search, the women discovered more than just good food.
"We saw the challenge (and) the joys of eating local," Harris said.
One of those challenges is using only food that is available. This means no corn on the cob in the winter. The menu changes daily, weekly and monthly, based on what is in season. Not all customers fully grasp the concept. For example, one winter day a woman ordered a turkey sandwich for lunch. When it came out, she was perturbed to find that there was no tomato or lettuce on it. Tomatoes don't grow in the winter in Virginia and the products that are being shipped in are not the same quality as local, in-season foods, Goldstein said.
"You can taste that (something) is not at its peak," Goldstein said.
Instead of buying food to fit a menu, chef Blase calls farmers on a weekly basis, figures out what is available and then develops a menu. Blase said that it is an exciting challenge.
"I would far rather do something like this instead of a steady 365-day menu," said Blase, who came here two and a half years ago from New York City.
While some people assume that Edible Garden serves only greens, tofu and tea, the staff said most customers are appreciative of what they do.
"More people (are) coming here and realizing what we're doing and that this is really good food," Harris said.
In response to the tea and tofu rumor, Harris simply stated, "We are such a meat and potatoes place (with) good hearty comfort food."
Edible Garden is located on 12506 River Road. It is open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Dinner is served from 5 to 8 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
w LAST TIME OUT: Cavalier goes green.