One Tank Trips

One Tank Trip: The Eastern Shore

Find out what to eat, where to stay and what to do.

The annual Chincoteague Pony Swim, Penning and Auction is the Eastern Shore's biggest attraction.

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Kent Jennings Brockwell
Richmond.com
Thursday, May 29, 2008

There is something about a festival that brings out the best in people. It doesn’t really matter what the festival is celebrating, either.

Be it pork products, chili recipes or Greek culture, festivals give people the chance drop their workweek blues, reunite with old friends and rally around a common theme, even if it involves chitterlings.

While Richmond is home to multiple great festivals, sometimes Richmond's "small-town big-city" feel (that quality that newcomers laud and natives condemn) gets the best of us. While Richmond's Friday Cheers, Greek Festival and Highland Games are great easy-going events, you can only run into your former bosses and ex-lovers but so many times before you sign up for the Federal Witness Protection Program.

The Eastern Shore

Driving distance: 200 miles

Estimated gas cost (at 27.5 miles per gallon*): $27.30 each way**

Directions: Take I-64 East into Norfolk, turn north on US-13, go across the Chesapeake Bay/Bridge-Tunnel until you reach the Eastern Shore. Everything on the peninsula is a short drive off US-13, which is the main road.

Population: 51,000

For more information, visit:

The Eastern Shore Tourism Commission at info@esvatourism.org or check out www.esvatourism.org/.

Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce at www.chincoteaguechamber.com

*New federal minimum mpg average
**Calculated at $3.74 per gallon (latest AAA Mid-Atlantic average)

Though you may hate to miss a weekend of all-you-can-eat Hanover tomatoes or baklava at your favorite Richmond-area festival, sometimes we just need a change of scenery that doesn't involve the U.S. Marshals service.

Luckily, Virginia's Eastern Shore has a plethora of interesting and tasty festivals dashed throughout the calendar year. Many are food related and one is world famous but all are sure to please. Additionally, all are 200 miles away on the beautiful yet rural Eastern Shore so you are guaranteed a "small town out-of-town" feel, meaning you probably won't run into any exes and have to do the all too familiar hide-behind-the-portapotty routine.

For your viewing and out-of-town festival hunting pleasure, we have compiled a list of Eastern Shore festivals that includes a little bit of information on each. Here's the skinny on...

The 21th annual Chincoteague Blueberry Festival

July 25-27, 2008

Did you know that tiny delicious blueberries can improve your vision, help clear arteries, strengthen blood vessels, enhance memory, stop urinary tract infections, promote weight control and contain massive amounts of antioxidants for disease protection?

And I just thought they were tasty...

Well, do yourself a favor and check out the Chincoteague Blueberry Festival in late July, which also is the opening event for the pony swim week (see below). A rain or shine event, the festival will feature dozens of local artists, crafters and decoy carvers as well as hundreds of tasty sweet blueberries served in a variety of ways.

The 2008 festival will be held at the Chincoteague Center, which is located at 6155 Community Drive in Chincoteague. Besides the always favorite Ultimate Blueberry Pie, berry delicacies at the festival will also include blueberry ice cream, blueberry shortcake, blueberry pancakes, blueberry smoothies and much more.

For more information about this blueberry extravaganza, call (757) 824-3868 or visit www.chincoteagueblueberryfestival.com.

The Chincoteague Pony Swim, Penning and Auction

July 30, 2008

With several books, a feature length movie and annual worldwide news coverage focusing on this historic event, the Chincoteague Pony Swim is by far the most popular event on the Eastern Shore each year. Since the 1920s, herds of the infamous wild horses of Assateague Island have been herded and swum across Assateague Channel to Chincoteague Island each year as a way to maintain the herd.

In 1925, the local fire company was authorized to sell off some of the ponies as a way to raise funds to buy replacement fire equipment. In 1947, Marguerite Henry wrote "Misty of Chincoteague," a children's book about an Eastern Shore family and two children who adopt and care for an Assateague Pony named Misty. In 1961, the book was turned into a movie and shortly thereafter the annual Eastern Shore event became a world-famous Eastern Shore event that draws thousands from all over to Chincoteague each July.

While the big pony swim is always held on the last Wednesday of July, the exact time of the swim varies each year due to tidal conditions, so get there early (well before 7 a.m.) or do some advance research to make sure you don't miss the action. Also, with more than 40,000 attending each year, it gets crowded so be prepared.

Besides the swim on July 30, however, there is a month's worth of fun pony-related as well as non-equestrian events surrounding the big day. Starting July 3 and lasting throughout the week of the swim and auction and into early August, Chincoteague plays host to an old style carnival every Friday and Saturday night.

Then, on the day of the swim, after crossing and taking a brief rest, the ponies are herded to the carnival grounds where visitors can take a gander at the majestic beasts. That evening the live entertainment begins and continues throughout the next day when selected ponies are auctioned off. On Friday, non-auctioned ponies are led back to the channel where they swim back to Assateague where they gallop and neigh freely until the following July.

For more information on the Pony Swim, Penning and Auction, please call (757)-336-6161 or visit www.chincoteaguechamber.com/events.html.

The Chincoteague Island Oyster Festival

Oct. 11, 2008

They are slimy, sometimes a little gritty and, for many people, they are oh so delicious.

We're talking oysters and what better place to get your hands on the freshest around than the Eastern Shore?

Each October, the Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce hosts the Chincoteague Island Oyster Festival to mark the arrival of oyster season. But who are we kidding? With about 2,700 attending each year, it's basically a big 'ol party!

"It's our largest fundraiser and we do it to celebrate the oyster season and to celebrate seafood in general as a livelihood here on Chincoteague," said Suzanne Taylor, Chincoteague Chamber's executive director of marketing and tourism. "But it's a lot of fun and it's really just like a big tailgate."

One look at the all-you-can-eat menu, however, and you better have packed your stretchy pants for this epicurean festival of the sea.

"We have oysters served just about any way you can think of (fritter-style, steamed, raw or fried just to name a few) and we have steamed crabs and clam chowder and clam fritters and we even have hotdogs for people that don't like seafood," Taylor said.

As for the featured item, the grand oyster, the event features Chincoteague Seaside Oysters, a variety Taylor said is a big draw for oyster lovers.

"They are very salty and I think that is one of the main reasons people come," she said. "They are so accustomed to getting them from Louisiana and other places so it is a little different. Most oyster lovers tend to say that Chincoteague oysters are the best."

There is also plenty of homemade cole slaw, potato salad and hush puppies to go around. Beer will be served at the event but festival goers can bring their own brew as long as no glass bottles are packed.

If you can move without assistance after the feeding, feel free to bust a move as The Island Boys will be providing live entertainment throughout the afternoon.

The event begins at 10 a.m. and lasts until 4 p.m.

"We get a lot of people from Pennsylvania and New Jersey but we would love to have some people from Richmond," Taylor said.

To buy tickets for the Chincoteague Island Oyster Festival, please call (757) 336-6161 or visit www.chincoteaguechamber.com/oyster-festival.

The Eastern Shore File

History:
If the eight-decade-old pony swim isn't enough history for you, check out the Eastern Shore Railway Museum, (757) 665-7245, in Parksley. The museum hosts a number of retired railcars and artifacts from the numerous railroads that have operated on the Eastern Shore since the 1800s. If trains aren't your thing, check out the 142-foot tall Assateague Lighthouse, (757) 336-6122, on the Virginia side of Assateague Island.

Lodging:

There are a few big name hotels on the peninsula but B & B's are the usually the way to go on the Shore. Though you have to book early to stay there during the pony swim, try Chincoteague Island's 1848 Island Manor House Bed & Breakfast, (757) 336-5436, for a good night's sleep and a bit of local history. If you decide to stay closer to the main bridge, however, The Cape Charles House, (757) 331-4920, in Cape Charles is one of the largest in the southern region. For a list of the various B & Bs on the Eastern Shore contact the Bed & Breakfast Association of Virginia at (888) 660-2228.

Dining:

With more fishing villages than you can shake a cane pole at, Eastern Shore restaurants are known for serving the freshest seafood in the state. In the southern part of the peninsula, check out any of the nice restaurants near Bay Creek Marina on the northern side of Cape Charles. If you are a little further north, go retro at the old school Exmore Diner, (757) 442-2313, in Exmore. In Onancock, follow your nose to Market or North streets where dining options are varied from quaint cafes to sit-down gourmet eateries like The Charlotte Hotel and Restaurant, (757) 787-7400. Be sure to try the crab cakes wherever you go.

Shopping:

Most little seaside towns are known for their local artisans and the Eastern Shore is no different. After the pony swim, be sure to check out artist Nancy Richards West's latest works at Island Arts, (757) 336-5856, in Chincoteague. Looking for antiques? Check out Market Street Antiques, (757) 787-7877; Timothy Smith and Sons, (757) 787-3733 or Deadrise Enterprises, (757) 787-2077, in Onacock.

Attractions:
Besides the pony swim, the peninsula has many outdoor opportunities including fishing, birding, shelling as well as hiking and water sports. Kiptopeke State Park, (757) 331-1040, near Cape Charles is home to the Eastern Shore Birding Festival in October. For weekend fishermen, check with the local marina in any of the bayside or seaside towns for available fishing charters. For kayaking or canoeing enthusiasts, Eastern Shore Canoe & Kayak, (757) 302-1344, in Onley offers rentals as well as a number of ecotours.

Have you traveled here before? Have a favorite restaurant? A daytrip you want to recommend? Drop us a line here!

3 comments.

Rob - Email this User
6/27/2008 at 1:49:55 AM

Richmond.com Article Feedback - Leave your comment today!

Some additions to the list of restaurants: Stingrays on Rt. 13 has some of the best seafood you'll ever find. Don't let its location in a gas station fool you! Also, for those of you who crave excellent Italian food; Little Italy in Nassawadox has the best on the shore.

Courtney - Email this User
5/29/2008 at 11:22:45 AM

Cape Charles is AWESOME! You've missed on some fabulous things to do. My parents own a farm there and we go often to get away! The people of Cape Charles are as friendly as it gets! Food: Don't miss Aqua at Bay Creek Marina where there is fabulous shopping as well as sunsets you can't miss! The Serenity is an old sailing vessel that takes out dinner and sunset cruises. For the young at heart, there is Kelly's Pub in town that has great live music and food as well! There are many bed and breakfasts and a gorgeous public beach in Cape Charles! Everything is in walking distance and most people drive their golf carts around town. Be sure to catch a milkshake at Rayfield's pharmacy, a round of golf at Bay Creek and a delicious cup of coffee from Cape Charles Coffee Company! It's a great weekend trip without the crowds of VB... ENJOY!

Michael
4/25/2008 at 11:23:31 AM

Eastern Shore: Some good sightseeing. Capt. Barry's Back Bay adventures in Chincoteague was awesome.
The only downside to Chincoteague is the people aren't "tourist oriented" (i.e. not friendly) and the mosquitos/flies are outrageous.

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