Walk through L’Opossum’s front door and you’ll feel as though you’ve fallen down the rabbit hole into a surrealist setting. Dim lighting, funky light fixtures, bizarre portraiture and wacky tchotchkes (note the poodle clock and opossum taxidermy at the bar) make you feel like you’re hanging out in your crazy nana’s basement.
But don’t let the fanciful décor fool you: This place serves serious food. The dishes are eccentric, playful and honestly delicious.
In tune with the wacky design elements, confidently bizarre and intriguing ingredients sprinkled throughout the menu make you wonder how it all comes together. Chef David Shannon delivers L’Opossum’s unexpectedly delicious dishes, each with a beautiful and creative presentation to boot.
L’Opossum opened in early August in the EAT by Pescados location on China Street in Oregon Hill. Shannon, who previously owned Dogwood Grill & Spirits and cooked at Helen’s and the Inn at Little Washington, purchased the space and transformed EAT’s beachy, California vibe to a cozy, French-inspired fine-dining restaurant that seats about 50. L’Opossum serves up classic cocktails with a twist and playful dishes.
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A friend and I headed to L’Opossum on a Wednesday evening at 6:30, excited to see if the new eatery lived up to all its hype.
Our waitress greeted us and poured us glasses of water, mentioning it had a punch of mint. I realized we were about to embark on an adventure. Even the water is exciting at L’Opossum.
My partner started off with the Hooty Hoo! ($9), a White Russian that would make “The Big Lebowski’s” Dude envious. The frothy drink was served with Yoo-Hoo instead of Kahlua, an earthy and smoky lava salt and Xocolatl Mole Bitters that gave the cocktail hints of cacao, cinnamon and spice.
I started off with the Violet Femme ($9), which was mixed with Death’s Door Gin, sweet and floral Crème de Violette, muddled citrus and vermouth-soaked cherries.
Our waitress gave us a lengthy description for each drink and dish we inquired about, listing in full detail the ingredients, flavors and even the textures we should expect. We were thankful for this, because the menu is positively overwhelming.
Each dish has an extraordinary ingredient (or two). For instance, the North Carolina Chapel Creek Oysters Rockefeller ($10) are spritzed with an absinthe mist. The fried chicken ($19) is served with Fireball (as in the candy) butter. And the rack of lamb is accompanied by mint tomato jam and lavender bordelaise ($27).
We started with Les Escargots a la Ham Biscuit with sweet garlic beurre blanc ($9), an indulgent dish of eight plump snails drizzled with balsamic and served in a bed of warmed greens. A piece of salty Virginia ham sandwiched in a buttery and flaky biscuit accompanied the dish.
Curiosity led us to order the Faberge Egg Bedazzled With Caviar, Vodka-Laced Accoutrements et Les Jiggles de la Champagne Rose ($11). Two deviled eggs, purpled with beet juice, are served with a filling of crème fraîche, briny capers and chives and then topped with Ossetra, a caviar from the Caspian Sea, which gave the eggs an earthy, nutty flavor. The eggs were perched in a nest of vermicelli rice noodles that were sprinkled with Stoli lemon vodka. Topping it off, rose champagne Jell-O “gem stones” gave the appetizer a bright splash of flavor and texture.
For dinner, we went with two dishes recommended by our waitress. My partner had the Blue Crab-Festooned Filet Mignon ($29), served with champagne curry, asparagus and bacon-wrapped oysters. The dish was delicious — tender steak, plump oysters, smoky bacon, rich crab, fresh asparagus — but she felt there was an overabundance of protein on her plate.
I went with Cap’n Dave’s Catch of the Day ($27), a pan-seared halibut served with Surry sausage wild rice and a veal and mushroom broth. The medium-bodied white fish was succulent and mild, pairing nicely with the rich stock. Long-grain wild rice added a crunchy texture, Italian white grapes a sweetness, and the kale and mushroom medley (shiitake, oyster and chanterelles) added a subtle earthiness.
For round two of drinks, I decided to switch to a red wine that would complement my entrée, and asked our waitress for her suggestion. I ended up going with Rhino Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, California ($11), a bold, tannic red that paired well with the gamey sausage wild rice and veal broth.
Sticking to the cocktail menu, my partner ordered the French Tickler ($10): Belvedere vodka mixed with bitter and orange Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao, and piney-sweet Lillet Blanc.
For dessert, we finished with the Lavender-Limoncello Crème Brûlée ($8), an airy custard with hints of citrus and floral flavors, and a crisp browned top — a perfectly light end note to our meal.
L’Opossum, with its flamboyance and gumption, is helping to shake up this town’s already vibrant restaurant scene. Shannon is reinventing food, hospitality and ambience with his own special wit and panache.
From start to finish, L’Opossum is a dining experience fit for the food-curious.
Marissa Hermanson is The Times-Dispatch’s restaurant critic. The Times-Dispatch pays for the meals on her unannounced visits to restaurants. Contact her at marissahermanson@gmail.com.
