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Here are key costs to consider, in addition to upfront costs, when thinking about leasing a car. These numbers help estimate the true cost of a lease.

Have your dad bring over his voltmeter and hook it up to the battery. Then, while the engine is running, try jiggling the ignition switch and each of the wires that comes out of it.

Wiggle the wires one at a time, and if you notice the voltage drop while you’re wiggling a wire, you’ve found the problem. If you get no drop in voltage around the ignition switch, try the wires coming from the alternator and battery to the power distribution box under the hood.

This can be a time-consuming process, but since you’ve already eliminated the battery and the alternator, it’s the next logical step.

The other thing that can cause your problem is a bad ground. Since the car is 25 years old, it’s possible that its ground wires are corroded or are falling off. There are several of them between the battery and the block and chassis. Have your dad find them and see if they’re fully intact. If there’s any question, just replace them. That’s not hard.

There are two possibilities that come to mind. One is that the original tires have a different profile than his new tires. They’re probably a little taller, for instance, with high sidewalls.

So while the new tires worked when the car was lowered, the inner sidewall of the old tires may have ended up rubbing against the strut assembly or some other part of the rear suspension.

Or — even if they weren’t rubbing — the tire was so close to something else that a big bump on the highway forced the tire into that piece and put a gash in it. If they were actually rubbing against something, he should see evidence of that on the other (stock) rear tire.

The other possibility is that he adjusted the camber (that’s the term for whether the tires lean in at the top or out) to such an extent that the stock tires were practically running on their inside edges. Maybe one wore out that way.

Or, since the sidewall is much more vulnerable to puncture than the tread surface, a road obstruction may have had an easier time damaging it.

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Edmunds' top-rated awards go to the cars, trucks and SUVs that rank at the top of their class. Here's a look at five of 2022's top-rated vehicles.

Which features are essential when buying a new vehicle? Edmunds’ experts break down five must-have features for your next car.

So, something is wrong with your interlock, Ed. It could be a bad switch at the brake pedal or a switch that’s just badly out of adjustment. It could be the solenoid that operates the lock. Or it could be the lock mechanism itself.

While the manual override switch should operate indefinitely, I think it’d be worth taking the car for a second opinion. The dealer may be right that it’s a $1,000 repair, based on other Versas he’s fixed. But he also could be guessing or trying to get you to trade in your car so he can have another car to sell.

If it’s just the switch at your brake pedal, it’s not going to cost anywhere near $1,000 to fix. Even if it’s the solenoid, you’ll probably get a much better price at a good, independent shop.

You’d be miffed if you paid to have the sensor removed and the battery replaced, then have a 10-year-old sensor fail a few months later due to an age-related problem. So, we always replace the whole sensor.

We also use only original equipment sensors from the manufacturer. You can get cheaper, aftermarket sensors that claim to work on different cars. But in our experience, they sometimes have trouble communicating with the car’s computer. And then you’ve got the same problem: You’ve spent $50, and then you’ve got to spend $85 and start all over again.

The tire pressure sensors are the only sensors that are powered by their own batteries, Ken. Pretty much everything else on the car can be wired directly. It’s just the unique setting of the tire pressure sensor — spinning inside a sealed tire — that calls for a battery powered solution.

The reason they want you to enter the battery’s details is so the charging system knows that you have a new battery and knows the battery’s specifications. Why does that matter? Well, an older battery on its last legs needs to be charged more intensively, to keep it working. And if the Audi thinks you’re still using your old, 6-year-old battery, Audi says it could overcharge your new battery, and possibly even damage your $600 alternator.

We’re told that some aftermarket batteries will provide the information the Audi computer needs, in which case any shop (like your German car specialist) that has Audi’s diagnostic software can do the update for you.

But since you did what most screw-it-up-yourselfers do (screw it up first, read the instructions later), you bought a battery before figuring out what you actually needed.

What can you do now? Well, you can genuflect to the Audi dealer. You can buy another aftermarket battery that provides the information you need. Or you can take your chances and drive it, and hope you sell the car to your no-good cousin Buford before it becomes a problem.

If you’re really stubborn, and feel lucky, I suppose you could take the numbers off of your old battery, perhaps changing the last few digits of the serial number, enter those numbers, and see if your Audi “accepts” that as a new battery with the same specs.

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