When we travel, we often seek to be transported, not just to another place but to another state of mind. However, a stay at Fort Lewis Lodge & Farm, a mountain resort in Bath County’s Millboro, feels almost like time traveling. Here, 3,300-acres of fields, forests, farms, and streams set the stage for a wholesome retreat that’s equal parts adventure, relaxation, and nourishment.
There are no televisions in the cozy lodge rooms — much to my daughter’s dismay — and cell phone reception is spotty unless you connect to Wi-Fi. (Best to print out or screenshot driving directions around these parts.) But this encourages one to lean into being present and taking full advantage of the property. Set on a working cattle ranch, Fort Lewis spans sweeping pastures, fields outfitted with a disc golf course, and forests with hiking and mountain biking trails, all cut through by the Cowpasture River, which can be explored via swimming, fishing, kayaking, and tubing.
People are also reading…
You can do as little or as much as you want here, and with dinner and breakfast included in your stay, it’s no wonder that some families have been coming here for generations. In fact, repeat guests are honored with a namesake plaque on the nearly full board of “The Swallows,” for those returning, five, 10, 15, and 20 years.
The property has been family-owned and operated for 65 years by the Cowden family. It began as a cattle operation, but to maximize their property and create another revenue stream, second-generation owners John and Caryl decided to harness the natural beauty of the mountains and land, restore the historic grist mill, and build a lodge to create a rustic-chic resort that they opened in 1988. They also raised their now-grown children David, Kelly, and Josh on the property. David and his wife Erin, whom he met in New York City, returned to Millboro as third-generation owners and farmers to carry on the family legacy.
Fort Lewis Lodge is truly a family-run business with everyone doing a bit of everything. In addition to helping John manage the cattle operation, David might be spotted toting kayaks and inner tubes or pouring drinks at Buck’s Bar.
It’s actually here at the bar that our Fort Lewis experience kicks off, right at happy hour. Guests can sit on the outdoor patio to take in views of the pond and listen to the distant croak of bullfrogs or find a table inside where the soundtrack leans toward the homespun rhythms of bluegrass and folk music. There is an assortment of drinks available for purchase, including wines by the glass, sodas, and beer and cider on tap (don’t miss the excellent local cider from nearby Troddenvale), all served with complimentary snack mix.
The ringing of the old-fashioned dinner bell is the cue to head next door for mealtime. As guests step into the dining room, elegant in its simplicity, the aroma of home cooking greets them, along with the pleasant din of the open kitchen, which Caryl oversees. Meals are served camp-style, meaning you wait until your table is called up to peruse the daily set menu, then let the friendly staff fill your plate with your choices. Caryl’s cuisine is a treat, prepared with fresh ingredients and a dash of creative flair.
My favorite dinner dishes include grilled pork tenderloin with raspberry glaze and mustard sauce, a corn-and-black-bean medley with cherry tomatoes dressed in a zippy lime vinaigrette, and warm peach pound cake topped with a melting dollop of homemade whipped cream. Cap off your evening at the pavilion, where you can play cornhole or ping-pong, recline on the deck, or sit by the fire, an ideal perch for roasting marshmallows (gourmet s’mores kits are available for purchase in the office/gift shop). If the sky is clear and weather permits, head to the stargazing deck for sublime views of the night sky.
Early risers might like to fit in a hike before breakfast, or loungers can linger with a cup of coffee and recline on one of the comfy sofas or chairs in the common room, outfitted with books, board games, and puzzles. Coffee is self-serve from the freshly brewed pot in the communal kitchenette in the lodge or a DIY situation in one of the freestanding cabins. When the morning meal bell sounds, head to the restaurant for hearty scratch-cooked fare such as cinnamon-oatmeal pancakes with Virginia maple syrup or Southern cheese grits with ham and hash browns, plus fresh fruit and baked goods, like butter-pecan coffee cake.
Once you’ve fueled up for the day, check in with Erin or David about daily activities. If water levels permit, inquire about tubing or kayaking, or peruse the property map to choose a hiking trail.
The Hickory Loop Trail is a moderately challenging trail that offers a rewarding panoramic view of the back of the property. If relaxation is the aim, book a time slot for the treetop wood-fired sauna, or tote a book and a towel to a riverside hammock.
Post-breakfast is also the time to request an optional picnic lunch (not included in the stay), which includes a simple deli sandwich, chips, a cookie, and bottled water. I recommend picking it up before heading to the swimming hole, located a short walk away from the restaurant. The bracing temperature of early summer waters doubles as nature’s cold plunge and is particularly refreshing after a trip to the sauna. But during warmer months, the contrast of the cool waters is more welcome. (Pack sandals or water shoes, as the shoreline is rocky.) There is something about dining waterside that evokes a certain nostalgia and sense of wellness for me — going for a swim, then unhurriedly eating lunch in my swimsuit, perhaps going for another dip before returning to a sun-soaked towel to savor a freshly baked chocolate chip cookie, its edges crisp-tender and its gooey center warmed by the sun.
Making time to visit the animals by the farm and garden (a modest plot that provides some produce for the restaurant) is a must, particularly if you’ve got kids. Majestic horses share space with a motley crew of goats, while a pair of Berkshire hogs (which John refers to as tourist pigs since they’re just for show) get their own enclosure. They’re all just as happy to be here as all the humans — owners and guests alike — and their presence only contributes to the idyllic surroundings, the kind that make you simultaneously wonder Where am I? and I’m home.
Fort Lewis Lodge
